Manti: Uzbekistan's Steamed Dumplings
Big steamed dumplings of lamb and onion, the pumpkin version worth waiting for autumn for, how they are made and how to order them properly.
Independent travel guides to Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva & the Silk Road
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Big steamed dumplings of lamb and onion, the pumpkin version worth waiting for autumn for, how they are made and how to order them properly.
A Russian diplomat's 1907 house, decorated by craftsmen from Khiva, Bukhara and Fergana, now holding suzani, ceramics and carved ganch. The best hour in Tashkent.
An honest assessment of mobility access at Uzbekistan's monuments, hotels, trains and cities, plus what can be arranged and what cannot.
A Sogdian trading town abandoned when the river moved, 60 km from Bukhara: what the excavations found, what is left to see, and how to get there.
The observation deck, the revolving restaurant, the passport check at the door and whether the view over Tashkent justifies the queue.
July in Samarkand is 38 degrees by ten in the morning. How to structure the day, which cities are worst, where to escape and whether to come at all.
A European palace built for a tsar who never came, 12 km from Bukhara, and the railway deal that put it there. What survives and whether to make the trip.
A blue-domed museum of the Timurids, a square that has changed its statue four times, and the pedestrian street beside it. What to see and what it all means.
How payment actually works in Uzbekistan: where cards are accepted, which ATMs take foreign cards, how much cash to carry and why the local Humo and Uzcard system matters.
Brown, green and yellow glazes from a town outside Bukhara, made by one family for six generations. What to look for, what it costs, and how to visit.