Renting a Car and Driving in Uzbekistan
Licences, rental companies, road quality, the methane fuel problem, police checks and the honest question of whether to hire a driver instead.
Independent travel guides to Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva & the Silk Road
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Licences, rental companies, road quality, the methane fuel problem, police checks and the honest question of whether to hire a driver instead.
Shoes, gifts, where to sit, why your tea bowl is only half full, how much to eat and how to leave. What to do when you are invited in.
The tomato and onion salad that comes with plov, the Korean carrot on every bazaar counter, and the mayonnaise salads inherited from the Soviet century.
Currency declaration thresholds, the certificate you need for anything over 50 years old, medication rules and drones. What to do before you buy a carpet.
The neighbourhood as an institution: courtyard houses, the committee, weddings and funerals, and how to walk through one without being a nuisance.
The lamb broth, the rice soup, the mung bean porridge and the dumpling soup: what each one is, when Uzbeks eat it and how to order.
Water, food hygiene, heat, pharmacies and what medical care is actually like. Practical precautions for a trip, without the scaremongering.
The black and white Chust cap, the gold-embroidered Bukharan one, who wears which, what the pepper motif means and how to buy a real one.
Meat and vegetables layered in a sealed pot and left alone for two hours. What goes in, why the order matters and where to find a good one.
Regional styles, what the motifs mean, how to tell hand embroidery from machine work, and what an old piece against a new one should cost.