Samarkand at Night: Light Shows and Evening Walks
The Registan light show, which monuments are lit after dark, where to walk in the evening, and how to photograph Samarkand once the coaches have gone.
Independent travel guides to Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva & the Silk Road
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The Registan light show, which monuments are lit after dark, where to walk in the evening, and how to photograph Samarkand once the coaches have gone.
Plov centres, bazaar stalls, Korean salads and proper restaurants: how to eat well in Tashkent at every budget, with the timing that matters.
A working provincial capital between Samarkand and Termez, with a 16th-century blue dome, a ten-arched brick bridge and almost no visitors.
What to buy at Samarkand's big market next to Bibi-Khanym: the bread, the halva, the dried fruit and nuts, plus prices, timing and how to bargain.
Uzbekistan is hard for vegetarians and manageable with a plan: what to order, the phrases that work, the hidden meat to watch for, and where to eat in each city.
A Russian-built garden city with wide avenues and little to see, and the most practical place to sleep while you visit Margilan, Rishtan and Kokand.
The mosque on the edge of Afrasiyab: a painted wooden verandah, the best free view of Bibi-Khanym, and the tomb of Uzbekistan's first president.
A month-by-month guide to Uzbekistan's fruit: which melons to buy, when apricots, cherries, grapes and pomegranates arrive, and how to shop for them at a bazaar.
The Fergana Valley's largest city: the Mullah Kyrgyz madrasah, Babur park, the flower festival, and how to use Namangan as a base for Chust and Chartak.
A conical dome that belongs 600 km away, a spring said to have been struck from the ground by Job, and a small museum about the thing Bukhara never had enough of.