Things to Do
Tosh Hovli Palace: Khiva's Harem Courtyards
Inside Khiva's Tosh Hovli palace: the harem courtyard, the three courts, the khan who wanted it finished in two years, and how to read the tilework.
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Things to Do
Kunya Ark: Inside Khiva's Old Fortress
Khiva's citadel explained: the khan's throne yard, the summer mosque tiles, the mint, the jail and the bastion with the best sunset view in the city.
Culture & History
Afrasiyab: Samarkand's Ancient City and Museum
The Samarkand that existed before Timur: the Afrasiyab mounds, the 7th-century Ambassadors' Painting, what the museum holds and how to visit the site.
Things to Do
Islam Khoja Minaret and Madrasah, Khiva
Khiva's tallest minaret: 57 metres, 175 dark steps, the best view of Itchan Kala, plus the museum below and the vizier who built it and was murdered.
Culture & History
Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum, Khiva
Khiva's holiest building: the tomb of a wrestler, poet and furrier who became the city's patron saint, plus tiles, etiquette and when to visit.
Things to Do
Bukhara's Trading Domes: Shopping Under 16th-Century Cupolas
Bukhara's four trading domes explained: what each one sold in the 1500s, what's sold there now, how to tell real from fake, and how to bargain properly.
Itineraries
Central Asia in Three Weeks: A Realistic Route
A realistic 21-day Central Asia route: Uzbekistan's Silk Road cities, Kazakhstan's Turkestan and Almaty, then Kyrgyzstan's mountains and lakes.
Things to Do
Djuma Mosque of Khiva: The Forest of Wooden Columns
Inside Khiva's Djuma Mosque: 212 carved wooden columns, some far older than the 18th-century building, plus the minaret climb, tickets and when to visit.
Destinations
Elliq Qala: The Desert Fortresses of Khorezm
How to visit Khorezm's desert fortresses from Khiva: Toprak Kala, Ayaz Kala and Kyzyl Kala, with their history, distances, tour costs and yurt stays.
Itineraries
Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan in Two Weeks
A day-by-day 14-day route through Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan: Silk Road cities, the Fergana Valley, the Dostuk border to Osh, Bishkek and Issyk-Kul.